Chatting With the Talented Darlings of the Reworked Vintage Clothing Movement (Exclusive)

Thanks in part to the infamous Shein influencer trip to Guangzhou, China, mainstream consumers are starting to question the ethics behind fast fashion behemoths. Aside from the unhygienic and unsafe labor conditions at many manufacturing establishments (the textile industry sweatshop problem is a whole 'nother article), the fashion industry is responsible for 20 percent of global waste water and produces about 1.92 million tons of textile waste annually, per Earth.Org.

From haute couture to Forever 21, fashion is making our beautiful planet an ugly wasteland.

Thankfully, labels like Coach and Strathberry are now utilizing recycled materials and plant-based leathers, and reworked vintage clothing brands are gaining traction.

We believe thrift flippers and upcycling designers are the future, so we spoke to Maddie West of Sloppy Seconds, a New York City-based androgynous upcycled clothing brand, and Brooklyn Karasack of Controlled Chaos, an Instagram-based upcycled festival wear brand. Read on to learn about their missions as responsible creatives.

These interviews have been edited and condensed for length and clarity.

Having an affinity with utilitarian style and menswear silhouettes, designer Maddie West creates structural pieces that can be dressed up or down.

She'll make you believe in faux boxer waistbands and ruched military liner jackets.

GREEN MATTERS: Can you tell us about your sustainable, low-waste fashion journey?

MADDIE WEST: When I was 8, I received a sewing machine and sewing classes for Christmas. I quickly became passionate about creating items that were useful. My first projects were a pair of pajamas, a bean bag chair, pillows, aprons, and stuffed animals.

Instead of buying new fabrics, I dug into my family’s clothing donation bag (stained button downs, outgrown jeans, and scraps of furniture upholstery), mostly out of convenience. I turned a pair of Limited Too cargo jeans into a mini skirt with a leftover shearling scrap trim, and cut-off jean scraps into a bell-sleeved top (see photo below).

I started Sloppy Seconds with a vision to contribute to the invaluable impact of upcycling fashion.

GM: The Sloppy Seconds website says that you "[draw] inspiration from time spent living in the Pacific Northwest, New England, London, and NYC." Can you elaborate?

MW: I grew up in Washington state and spent summers in Idaho, always surrounded by beautiful mountains and lakes. The value that our community placed on preserving natural resources instilled in me the principles and importance of sustainability.

Later, I studied in London and Boston, where I was exposed to history, art, and culture — and vintage fashion.

Now living in New York, I continue to be inspired by the city’s energy, and the stylish, diverse people who surround me. These experiences have contributed to pillars of self-expression, sustainability, and playful authenticity that define Sloppy Seconds.

GM: Do you think vintage creations are the future of fashion? What do you hope for the future of fashion?

MW: Vintage and upcycled clothing has A LOT of momentum in the fashion industry right now, because it is one way each of us can contribute toward a healthier world. This will likely continue to grow as people shop with more intention. Where were these items made? With what materials? And by who? Vintage and upcycled clothing checks these boxes and also guarantees that sense of individuality that people want right now.

The most important next step is for larger brands and corporations to be held accountable for their contribution to global pollution and waste, and find creative solutions that meet the needs of all stakeholders.

GM: What is your favorite garment you've made thus far? How does it embody your mission?

MW: My most recent favorite is our new "Jim Dress." Featuring patchwork pieces from preloved men’s dress shirts, the shirt dress is inspired by my Grandpa Jim, who has worn a blue button down shirt every single day as long as I’ve known him. The dress is classic, versatile, and can be worn in many ways (open, buttoned, or belted). The balance between elements of masculinity and femininity is a key part of the brand, and this piece effortlessly does that by combining the utilitarian, uniform-like menswear fabrics with the feminine, flowy silhouette of the dress.

The dress has also been named after my Grandpa Jim because his work ethic and values-driven approach were crucial to the success of his small business. He continues to be a role model and mentor to me as I work to grow Sloppy Seconds.

GM: What are some sustainable brands/designers that inspire you?

MW: Emily Bode's brand, Bode, honors the hand craftsmanship of vintage textiles and embroidery through their beautiful designs while also maintaining a super cool, effortless identity. I also love SC103 and their beautiful accessories made from pre-existing materials, and 69tearz for the most incredible wearable artwork.

If you've never approached broken thrift store heels and thought, "I'll make a corset," we'd like to welcome you into Brooklyn Karasack's crafty mind.

Often transforming ill-fitting Goodwill dresses and her grandma's frumpy blouses into chic festival-inspired ensembles, the innovative designer has racked up over 290,000 TikTok followers as of this writing. Karasack's beginner-friendly tutorials make thrift-flipping approachable for sustainable fashionistas everywhere.

GREEN MATTERS: Can you tell us about your sustainable, low-waste fashion journey?

BROOKLYN KARASACK: I have always been a crafty girl with an interest in fashion, but I didn't fully experiment with making my own clothes until I started attending music festivals in 2018. I was immediately drawn in by the exciting and eccentric styles, but I couldn't afford the outfits I was obsessed with.

My grandma taught me how to use a sewing machine when I was little. With that basic knowledge tucked in the back of my head, I headed to the thrift store and bought a shirt to start experimenting.

I originally sourced material from thrift stores simply because it was cheap. However, I've realized how beneficial it is on many fronts. Breathing new energy into thrifted pieces allows me to showcase my personality while being environmentally conscious. Through the sewing community, I've learned about the impact of fast fashion and how important it is to create and/or support sustainable fashion.

GM: You have a reworked vintage brand, Controlled Chaos, with your friend Mariah Allen. How did this come to be?

BK: Mariah and I have been best friends since 2015 and instantly bonded over music and fashion. We'd made comments here and there about starting our own brand. This came to fruition in 2021, when Mariah decided she was also going to learn to sew.

The second I came up with the name "Controlled Chaos" (inspired by lyrics from two bands: The Front Bottoms and Relient K), we knew it was perfect. I frequently get TikTok comments along the lines of "this was so chaotic, but it made sense," which reassures us we made the right choice.

GM: Do you think vintage creations are the future of fashion? What do you hope for the future of fashion?

BK: Vintage/thrift-heavy closets not only help decrease the amount of clothes that end up in landfills and minimize the support of "fast fashion," but they are also, in my opinion, so much cuter!

Thrifting and upcycling is good for the environment, it's good for your wallet, it's such a productive hobby, and it's great for personal expression. That's partially why my TikTok content is heavily tutorial-based; I would love to empower anyone who feels any sort of urge to experiment with clothes!

GM: What is your favorite garment you've made thus far? How does it embody your mission?

BK: A piece that always stays at the top of my list is the butterfly look I made for the 2023 Okeechobee Music & Arts Festival (see featured image). I usually thrift a piece of clothing and use that as the inspiration for the shape, but this one was a little different. I always keep the leftover fabric from a thrifted item, and I made this piece entirely with scraps.

GM: What are some sustainable brands/designers that inspire you?

BK: Anna Molinari (founder of Instinct Brand) is one of my personal favorites. She creates the coolest pieces from literal garbage: Plastic bags, bubble wrap, soda can tabs.

A second is Fashion Brand Company, another woman-run business that creates funky, out-of-the-box designs while staying committed to sustainability and treating its employees fairly.